Capanna Cadlimo
A two-day traverse through the Leventina: from Lago Piora past the ice-covered Lago Scuro to the Capanna Cadlimo, then down through the wild Valle Canaria to Airolo.
Two days through the Leventina
The Capanna Cadlimo sits high above the Leventina, the valley south of the Gotthard pass — and the way there is one of the loveliest two-day traverses in Ticino. From Ambrì-Piotta the Funicolare Ritóm carries you up to Piora, and from there the trail runs past a string of quiet mountain lakes, nearly every one of them inviting a swim. Lago Ritom glows turquoise, Lago di Tom tempts you into a lunch stop, and Lago Scuro lives up to its name with its ice floes — the whole area up here looks like a mix of Iceland and Mordor.
On day two you drop down through the wild Valle Canaria to Airolo. The path is at times not so easy to follow, which only makes the valley feel more untouched, with swimming spots along the way and a long descent into the sun. Technically it all stays within T3.
Tip: it’s at its best in autumn, when the larch forests light up. Water is plentiful everywhere — with a filter for sure, but probably fine without too. And in June, keep an eye on the Treno Gottardo: there are often deals around 22 CHF return down to Ticino.
How it went for me
We set off in June, thanks to a train deal and with friends from abroad in tow. We badly misjudged the temperatures: barely above 10 degrees by day, plus wind and drizzle. The tent ended up on lopsided patches of grass by Lago Scuro, and we bundled into every layer we had and brewed litres of tea (tea bottle = hot-water bottle). The next morning the dark clouds were gone; we had breakfast in the sun by the hut and met Peppe the ibex and his herd at a salt lick. Down in the Valle Canaria came a long swim below a small dam — and the previous day’s cold was suddenly hard to imagine. What a tour.
Want to walk this one with me?
I’ll start guiding small groups soon. Leave your email and I’ll write when I schedule this hike.