Namenlose Kante
A multi-pitch on the 'Nameless Arête' — airy edge climbing over several pitches.
A popular arête above the Wägital
The “Nameless Arête” is one of the best-loved multi-pitch lines on the Bockmattli, the limestone towers above the Wägital. Nine pitches of airy edge climbing take you up to 5b on good rock — around 220 m of climbing, and roughly three to four hours on the rope. Getting there is a tour in itself: about 2 h 30 up to the wall via the Bockmattlihütte (T3), and the descent takes another 2 h 30 (also around T3). Reckon on 8–9 hours car to car, with roughly 950 m of ascent and descent over 11 km.
The first part is the easier one, climbing in the fourth grade. After the fourth pitch there’s a natural exit: you can leave the route here and traverse off towards the Chli Chälen if you’ve had enough or the weather turns. Beyond it the climbing steps up, with pitches up to 5b.
The route is very popular, so the one real trick to having it to yourself is to go really early. Get on the rock ahead of the crowd and you’ll climb in peace; arrive late and you may spend the day waiting at the belays.
Tip: if you’re going in spring, late spring is usually ideal — the Bockmattlihütte is open by then and the snow has cleared out of the steep approach. Autumn is the other prime season.
Hero image: Thomas Woodtli, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons.
