Lavin–Guarda–Ftan

From Lavin to Ftan along the sun terrace

When the larches in the Upper Engadine have already dropped their yellow needles by early November, the Lower Engadine still offers a second chance. This section of the Via Engiadina is beautiful at any time of year, but late autumn is something else: an azure sky, the first snow on the summits and yellow larches together make for an unbelievable contrast.

The path climbs gently from Lavin (1413 m) with a big panorama all the way, and soon you reach Guarda (1653 m), one of the loveliest Grisons villages with its thick whitewashed Engadine houses and sgraffito façades, the village fountain on the Plazzetta and narrow cobbled lanes. From there, first across open meadows and then over Bos-cha and through forest to Ardez. If you like, you can catch the Postbus here already and connect to the RhB; the rest of the way to Ftan (1633 m) is worth it, though: the panorama only gets better, with the peaks of the Swiss National Park in view the whole time and Piz Lischana behind. You pass the Ruina Chanoua, a medieval Grisons dwelling and gathering house, and again and again fine views open down into the side valleys.

14.2 kilometres, 615 metres of ascent, 405 of descent, technically T2 throughout. Four hours walking time is a sporty estimate; take your time, stop for photos and lunch, and you will easily need twice that. A nice variant is to split it over two days with a night in Guarda (the Hotel Meisser comes recommended). And if you still have time once you reach Ftan, a swim at the Bogn Engiadina spa in Scuol before the train home is well earned.

Tip: the larches stay yellow into November, until the first proper rain brings the needles down. If you want to be sure, check the Bos-cha webcam before you set off.

How it was for me

My mum was visiting, and although at 75 she is still a solid walker, she had not been in the mountains for a long time. So we wanted something with a proper mountain feel and a big panorama, but less than ten kilometres a day, not too hard and not too much climbing. In November the choice is already thin, but this walk really delivered.

We started in Susch, and neither of us liked the stretch up to Lavin as much as the rest: it is steep in places, and above all the main road runs loudly through the valley with the feeling that you are walking right next to it. Better to start in Lavin, where the scenically nicer part begins.