Gross Bielenhorn Südostgrat
A long granite climb at grade 5c above the Sidelen hut — the most demanding ridge in the Furka area.
The big ridge at the Furka pass
The Gross Bielenhorn stands at a good 3200 metres above the Sidelen group, and its south-east ridge is the route you measure yourself against here once the easier ridges are ticked off. Aar granite as everywhere in this corner — rough and positive — but distinctly more demanding: 5c means a few pitches where you genuinely have to climb, and none where you can afford to sit back.
The base is the Sidelen hut. The approach from there is short, the route long, and because it finishes right at the top, the descent is a fixed part of the day’s planning. Doing it from the valley makes for a late return — with a night at the hut it becomes a comfortable, if still substantial, tour.
Tip: clearly a high-summer route. The ridge sits high, and the Furka pass lives up to its reputation — storms build fast here, and retreating from halfway up is awkward. Start early, keep an eye on the sky, and wait for a settled day rather than pushing a doubtful one.
On my list but not yet climbed myself — a personal report will follow.
Hero photo: Gerda Arendt, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons.
