Snow-capped Alpine peaks across a wide green valley, seen from the limestone cliffs.
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16 June 2024

Adlerspitzli

A fine, never-dull multi-pitch route on the Gross Mythen — lots of enjoyable climbing with a few challenging moves.

Map: swisstopo Download GPX

Short and sweet on the Grosser Mythen

Five pitches, 3a, around 120 m of climbing — an hour to an hour and a half on the rock. All in, reckon on 4–5 hours, 7 km, and 660 m of ascent and descent.

Getting to the start. Follow the hiking trail to Holzegg, then drop down towards Mythenbad. At 1220 m leave the forest track into the Hasliwald and follow the ledge up until you can cross it (red markings show the way). From there climb steeply up through the forest — the path is faint, but you pick it up again at the Geisstockwand, where you traverse to the start of the route, marked by bolts. T4+ to here.

Coming down. From the top you can either rappel the whole route, or descend by the Ruchband. The latter is worth it if you haven’t had enough and want to carry on up the Wysswändeli: rappel into the notch between Adlerspitzli and Geissstock, then climb back out the other side (about 30 m). From there traverse beneath the SW face of the Geissstock, along the Ruchbändli and all the way to the Zwischetmythen (T5).

Tip: Not a spring outing. As long as there is still snow up on the Mythenmatt, slabs can break loose and make the route dangerous — better to wait until the rocks above are clear of snow. Then it becomes a fine early-summer tour: everything green below, still snow on the peaks across the valley. And thanks to the short approach, it works even when the day is already half gone.